NOW THAT we have a new baby in the house, I’ve been doing some of the cooking, especially dinner. Most of the dinners have come from an outfit called Hello Fresh, which delivers a big box full of all the ingredients needed for various E-Z-Gourmet Dishes. I dutifully try to follow the directions—I chop the onions and mince the garlic and blanche the asparagus—and while the meals always come out edibl